I recently experienced an issue with cork taint in a wine while dining at a restaurant. When I mentioned it to the waiter, the bottle was assessed by the sommelier, who felt the wine was fine. However, the defect was noticeable to everyone at our table. This wasn't an isolated incident; I've encountered similar situations at other upscale restaurants. On one occasion, even with wine experts present, the owner initially disagreed about the presence of cork taint. It was only after we suggested comparing it with a second bottle (and after opening it) that he acknowledged the issue. The first bottle was indeed flat.
Conversely, wine shops have always been understanding and accommodating when I've returned bottles with defects. They typically verify the flaw and promptly offer an exchange.
Is it not crucial for a sommelier to have a keen sensitivity to wine defects? I wonder why some restaurants seem hesitant to acknowledge these issues. They could return the defective bottles to their suppliers, so what benefit is there in insisting a flawed wine is acceptable?
For 15 years, Athan Zafirov has traveled the vineyards around the world and worked with some of the greatest chefs including Francois Duc and Alan Brown.
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