For the longest time, I was convinced no one in Ontario had any business planting Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Our growing season just didn’t seem long or warm enough to ripen such a late-maturing varietal—conditions essential for producing a satisfying Bordeaux-style red. After all, my go-to Cab Sauv for a high-quality beef steak has always been something like Austin Hope’s Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon—big, bold, and sun-drenched.
Sure, a few vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake are trying to make it work, using the flat topography of the region to their advantage—flat vineyards retain more warmth than those on slopes. But even so, the red grapes that seemed to truly thrive in Ontario were Pinot Noir, Gamay, and, of course, Cabernet Franc.
I was so confident in my opinion that I may have foolishly shared it at a recent Bordeaux-style taste-and-buy event, proclaiming that no serious winegrower in Ontario should be planting the varietal. I might have even embarrassed myself in front of a very prominent Niagara Region winemaker. It was late in the tasting. I wasn’t the designated driver. But I swear she nodded in agreement—or at least she was being gracious, despite having some Cab Sauv vines planted in her vineyard.
Then my wife and I visited Pelee Island for our anniversary, where I hesitantly included a Cabernet Sauvignon in my tasting flight. It turns out that not only can Ontarians grow Cabernet Sauvignon—but in the right place, they can grow great Cabernet Sauvignon.
The secret lies in Pelee Island’s unique terroir, with geography and climate not found elsewhere in Ontario. Located about 30 km north of Ohio's Cedar Point, the island enjoys warm days, cool nights, and dewy mornings—ideal conditions for this grape. Sitting near the 41st parallel (in fact, slightly further south than Bordeaux), the island gets the heat Cab Sauv needs to ripen fully. Its flat terrain further helps by maximizing sun exposure.
In July 2015, Pelee Island was officially recognized as its own VQA sub-appellation: Lake Erie North Shore – South Islands. There’s only one winery on the island—Pelee Island Winery—but the region has all the makings of a distinctive terroir.
The topography is simple and sun-friendly. The soils—sandy loam and clay over limestone—are similar to those found on the mainland, offering moderate drainage and excellent depth in the island’s southwestern and central areas, where most vineyards are planted.
Lake Erie, the shallowest and warmest of the Great Lakes, plays a pivotal role. It warms quickly and extends the island’s growing season by as much as 30 days compared to inland Ontario. That extra time makes all the difference for late-ripening varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon.
The result? Reds with firm tannins and concentrated dried fruit notes. Whites with floral lift and tropical character. Wines that unmistakably reflect their island origin.
I picked up a bottle of the Pelee Island Winery Vinedresser Cabernet Sauvignon—only one, because my wife has temporarily banned me from buying more reds until we rebalance the cellar. We enjoyed it with dinner, and I regret to say I should have rebelled and bought more.
I was wrong about Ontario Cabernet Sauvignon. Completely. And I’m happy to admit it.
For 15 years, Athan Zafirov has traveled the vineyards around the world and worked with some of the greatest chefs including Francois Duc and Alan Brown.
Athan Zafirov's Medium
Athan Zafirov's Wordpress
Athan Zafirov's LinkedIn
Comments
Post a Comment