Littorai, Pivot Vineyard Sonoma Coast 2017 VS Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru, Clos de la Maréchale 2020 - The Athan Zafirov Wine Blog
A couple of benchmark Pinot Noirs tonight. I thought it would be fun to do a side by side.
- Littorai, Pivot, SC, 2017
Cranberry, Rhubarb, Raspberry, Strawberry
Gentle balsamic, tree bark, black tea, pink roses, shiitake mushroom, nutmeg, rain on soil. The oak is extremely well integrated.
M+Acid
M-Tannin
M+ Alcohol
M Body
- Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Clos de la Maréchale 2020
Blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry, petrichor, lavender, vanilla, dark chocolate, espresso
M+ Acid
M+ Tannin with some grit
H Alcohol
M+ Body
Conclusion:
This goes against what many people would broadly assume about CA PN vs Burgundy. The Littorai, with a touch more age and a cooler vintage, is far more finessed and red fruited. It has a lower impression of oak, lower alcohol and more secondaries.
The Mugnier is powerful with grippy tannins and primarily black fruit, which, if you've had a handful of 2020 red Burgundies, is par. The wine isn't oaky, but in contrast to the Littorai its presence is clear. This wine is more brooding, more floral and has higher overall intensity. Alcohol is clearly a tick higher than the Littorai is well.
The acidity in both wines is on the high side of M+.
The Littorai is in a great spot. I'm sure it can hang out for another 5+ years but I'm excited to sell more of this particular vineyard/vintage soon.
The Mugnier could use some time to integrate; the structural elements would lend well to some age. It feels like the type of NSG that could swing at year 20.
Geeky wine notes:
Pivot is one of 2 estate vineyards for Littorai (the other is Haven), with the rest being long term leases. Pivot was planted in 2004 in the Sebastapol hills. Ted Lemon, Littorai's owner and winemaker, is the first American to work as a winemaker and vineyard manager in Burgundy (Guy Roulot). He also trained at Dujac, Roumier and with Josh Jensen at Calera.
Home base for Mugnier is in Chambolle; they also make Musigny, Bonnes Mares and Les Amoureuses. Clos de la Maréchale is a monopole 1er cru of Mugnier's. It is the largest 1er cru monopole in the Côte d'Or (9 hectares) and is also the furthest south vineyard in NSG.
For 15 years, Athan Zafirov has traveled the vineyards around the world and worked with some of the greatest chefs including Francois Duc and Alan Brown.
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