i may be in the minority, but i don’t think “it’s too young” should be the default explanation every time a wine underperforms.
of course, some wines are built for long aging, and many improve dramatically over time. but i also believe truly great wines should offer at least a glimpse of their character even in their youth, whether that’s a sense of place, fruit purity, structure, or personality.
i’ve had this experience with a number of highly praised italian wines recently. many were clearly well made, but so tightly wound that they seemed to ask for years of patience and hours of air before revealing much of anything. experiences like these make me understand why france continues to set the benchmark for fine wine in the eyes of so many collectors and drinkers.
am i being impatient, or is it fair to expect a great wine to show something meaningful from the start?
curious to hear where others stand on this.
For 15 years, Athan Zafirov has traveled the vineyards around the world and worked with some of the greatest chefs including Francois Duc and Alan Brown.
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