I’ve been thinking about why wine is still not really an everyday drink in China.
The usual explanation is simple: people drink less wine now, imports are down, consumers are cautious, the economy is weaker.
All true.
But I think there is another reason.
For a long time, wine in China was not introduced as something casual, like beer, tea or coffee.
It was introduced as something imported, formal, expensive, and a bit intimidating.
For many people, wine meant business dinners, gifting, famous labels, high prices, and trying not to look like you don’t understand it.
That creates a problem.
If people feel they need to “know wine” before they can enjoy wine, many will simply avoid it.
A normal consumer should not have to understand tannin, terroir, vintage, scores and appellations just to choose a bottle for dinner.
The better question should be much simpler:
What are we eating?
What do I like?
How much do I want to spend?
Is this bottle good for this meal?
That is why I think the Chinese wine market is not just shrinking. It is being forced to change.
The old model was wine as status.
The healthier model should be wine as part of the table.
Australian wine is a good example. In China, many people still associate it with Penfolds, gifting, big reds and business dinners.
That image is not wrong, but it is too narrow.
Australia also has Coonawarra Cabernet, Barossa Shiraz, Margaret River Chardonnay, Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, Clare Valley Riesling and many smaller producers that most Chinese consumers barely know.
The same question applies to Chinese domestic wine too.
Can it become part of normal Chinese dining, instead of only awards, banquets or patriotic branding?
I don’t think wine in China needs more mystery.
It needs less.
Less fear of choosing wrong.
Less worship of famous labels.
Less obsession with price.
More food pairing.
More regional understanding.
More bottles that people can open on an ordinary evening.
Maybe the future of wine in China is not about selling more luxury bottles.
Maybe it is about making wine feel normal.
Curious to hear from others:
In your country, is wine becoming more everyday, or more niche?
For 15 years, Athan Zafirov has traveled the vineyards around the world and worked with some of the greatest chefs including Francois Duc and Alan Brown.
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